Cayos Cochinos, Guanaja!

I was beginning to think we would never leave Roatan again, but we're proud to say that we have left the "dock" and then we WENT SAILING!  Yep!  We actually did it!  Guanaja was where we wanted to visit first, but the weather was just not cooperating.  So we went to Cayos Cochinos, an island off the coast of mainland Honduras, about 20 nautical miles away and all systems worked!!!!  Yeh! 

Cayos Cochino is a really a beautiful place, the water was very clear, and there is a nice local dive resort, with good moorings. We didn't stay long; no other boats in the mooring field.  We're a little skittish these days because the local crime has been very high and didn't feel comfortable being so alone. Once the season begins and others are about we will return to do some more exploring.

 

One of the friends we made at Brooksy Point this season left and was single-handing his boat enroute to Panama.  The following is official account of his harrowing story. Certain information has been omitted for confidentiality.


"I was at anchored on Varillas Bank, Honduras. The Fuerza Naval Honduras boarded my vessel, to examine my documents. I asked for assistance in obtaining a quantity of transmission fluid (ATF Type A). They had non on board their patrol boat but agreed to inquire of fishing boats in the area. The following day they returned to indicate that none of the boats in the area carried the transmission fluid I required.. They advised me to go to Catarasca Lagoon where I would find a store to buy the fluid.

I broadcast a "Pawn" advisory concerning my intentions to enter Catarasca Lagoon. I arrived in the evening and not wanting to try the entrance in darkness I anchored nearby. That night a squall occurred. High winds, stormy seas. I was blown off my anchor about five miles westward and deposited on a shoal bank.

I immediately broadcast a distress signal. "Mayday" giving my name, name of my vessel and position. I continued broadcasting a distress signal each fifteen minutes. There was no response although I sighted three unidentified vessels nearby. Direct calls to the Fuerza Naval Honduras went unanswered.

A small open boat approached to offer assistance. The outboard he used for propulsion was insufficient to tow me off the shoal. He left and said he would contact the nearby authorities. He left aboard my boat a crewmember who manned the VHF and presumably was in contact with the Fuerza Naval Honduras or other authority. I could hear the conversation but was unable to actually translate under the circumstances.

A group of men boarded my vessel and began to disconnect the anchor rode. I restrained them and ordered them ashore.

In retrospect they wanted to assure themselves that I was alone. They returned later in force, about fifteen men, bound me and began to remove everything from my boat. The identified "crewman" was with them. The man in the small boat also.

 

I went overboard to the beach with the clothes on my back. My two computers, three GPS units, cellular phone, four hundred dollars in US money ,ship batteries, 150 gallons diesel fuel, sails, Compass, four anchors, clothing, three months provisions…the inventory is extensive…gone. I was told that the naval station was five miles away to the east. The beach ended at the jungle. I turned back in despair. A torrential rain began. I could see the "pirate" boat standing a bit offshore. Some of the men had come from there. The remainder had appeared out of "nowhere".

As I returned to the scene I watched as load after load was removed from my boat and disappeared into the jungle. I was quite exhausted. I prevailed on them not to leave me to perish on this uninhabited beach. A young boy was chosen to lead me out through the jungle to a"house". He sympathetic, handed me a billfold, small, containing a life saving Debit card and Passport.

Two hours through thick underbrush. Swampland. At times wading through chest high water we entered a clearing with several houses. I looked around and saw the contents of my boat strewn on the ground with a long line of bearers coming through the jungle loaded with more.

The owner of the settlement was the man who had arrived that morning to query me.

They gave me a glass of water and bade me wait on the raised porch of the main dwelling. Four hours later I was urged into a small boat for a two hour journey to Lempira.

On the way to Lempira we stopped at a station of the Fuerza Naval Honduras. They were conversant with each other. I saw no real possibility of appeal. Miles away a different world.

One curious aspect though. ..I was walking through the streets when a man called out "Capitan, Capitan" there’s a phone call for you. The pirates apparently being friends locally had used my cellular phone to call my Chief Mate in the States. It was her, tearfully looking for me. She had been given the number of my captor."

He is probably very lucky to be alive.  Now back in the US, he has been trying to initiate help from the FBI to possibly retrieve what's left of his boat, but this is well out of their jurisdiction!  Scary, sad story. He has been cruising and living aboard for over 30 years, so he has not only lost his home and all his possessions, but lifestyle as well.  It is sad that this so far seems to go unnoticed by any of the authorities in Honduras.  Just another casualty; we have learned of only one robbery that actually resulted in a trial and jail sentence, which actually happened in Guanaja last year.

The Gracias Adios area is a most remost area of Honduras. It is a primary trans-shipment point for drugs coming from Columbia/Mexico.  The area has always been dangerous, but in recent years has become more so due to the efforts to control the drug cartels.

 

This area, Cabo Gracias Adios is Spanish for Cape Thank God and is said to have been bestowed by Christopher Columbus on his last voyage in 1502 when the easterly trade winds calmed as he turned south.  The moment also gave the name to Honduras which means depths in Spanish, since the complete phrase is said to have been Gracias a Dios heos salido de esas honduras, or "Thank God we have come out from those depths".

Well Tropical Storm and predicted hurricane Ernesto was like  a figment of our imagination.....we spent a lot of time preparing, but ultimately all we got was a day of rain; actually it was pretty disappointing!.  All the shrimp boats came into the harbor, so it was pretty crowded. Our little ship could have been crushed by the big shimp boats if one had broken away and drifted. One large shrimp boat did go right over our anchor pulling it out. We thought our anchor was lost forever, but with the help of a local young man and Mike (the owner of Brooksy Point Yacht Club) we we're able to retrieve it from the prop of the large shrimp boat.

Recently, we experienced the "perfect" weather conditions to go to Guanaja! You wouldn’t think it would be so difficult to go roughly 40 nautical miles, but Guanaja has eluded us since arriving in Roatan in 2010.  Most often the winds are out of the east/ northeast in Roatan, so heading to Guanaja is unpleasant; kind of like riding in a washing machine.  I am happy to report that we finally did it! Our good friends on Adagio helped to show us the wa;y it was great to have a buddy boat.

On the way to Guanaja, east of Roatan is Santa Helena, and further east is the small island of Morat and a few miles beyond that is the island of Barbareta. Barbareta, while only about three and half miles long, is the fourth largest Bay Island. Barbareta is privately owned by a Corporation, and has only one settlement, the Barbareta Beach Club. The island and reef around it are protected as Barbareta Marine National Park. Just off Barbareta lie the very small, very picturesque Pigeon Cays.

Bonacca

There are well over 10,000 people living in Guanaja, but most live in the area called Bonacca, Sheen Cay, much of it built on stilts; encompassing only 100 acres.  The homes may be two or three stories high.  This area has also been referred to the Venice of the Caribbean, due to the canals. Not necessarily Venice, but none the less a very interesting town. No cars trucks or bikes. Everyone travels by boat or walks. The city is a maze of streets. Once again our friends on Adagio showed us much of the way through town and the local stores. Bonacca is one of the most unique places we have ever visited. The town has a new (one and only) bank and recently got a communication tower so internet and cells phones are now available. The people seemed very nice and most speak good English, but like any town you need to stay out of cerian areas. Despite it's remote location we were able to find excellent fuel, good water, and propane.



Dunbar Rock

We anchored in El Bight, adjacent to Dunbar Rock. and a bit west of Bonacca. The villa at Dunbar Rock is one of the Caribbean's most unique dive resorts; truly one of a kind.

Dunbar Villa operates as a well known dive resort, with excellent diving and fishing right off the dock. The coral reef is 100% private and the island lends itself to the intimacy of a private island as the picture shows is is a BIG rock.

This beautiful historical landmark was once used as a mooring for the famous pirate Blackbeard. Local legend has it that there is buried treasure on the island. When the owner was constructing the villas, he discovered a hidden cave on the island. He found many pieces of pre-Colombian pottery, but sadly no treasure.

Guanaja is the most mountainous of the three islands off the coast of Honduras that are The Bay Islands. Guanaja has many year-round fresh water springs, creeks and even waterfalls and is known for its spectacular diving and Caribbean pine trees. Columbus aptly named it "Isle of Pines".  Of the three islands, Guanaja is the most undiscovered and pristine. Guanaja is about 3x11 miles of lush and mountainous landscape; the highest peak rises to almost 1400 feet.  The native islanders of Guanaja are descendents of the original immigrants from the Bahamas and Cayman Islands in the early 1800s.

Manati Restaurant

As compared to Roatan, there is only one stretch of roadway between Mangrove Bight and Savannah Bight, so most sightseeing is done via boat.   After anchoring in El Bight we went ashore to the Manati Bar/restaurant for cervasa and dinner.  It is managed by a German couple, Annette and Klaus; they are very entertaining!  They have several guitars, bass, keyboard, etc. and if you're lucky "let the jammin' begin"!  I didnt' get a picture, but one evening David played "lead" guitar for a few songs.  It was great fun!

Klaus and Annette came to visit a friend in the mid 1990's and settled in La Ceiba and began a cycle touring business, but were wiped out by Hurricane Mitch.  Now they manage the restaurant for a German friend.  In addition to managing the restaurant, they provide tours to Michaels Rock and the waterfall.  They love the peacefulness of Guanaja.  It is very "tranquilo" here!



Graham's Cay

Yesterday, we visited Graham's Cay, which formerly had been known as Josh's Cay, about 45 minutes via sailboat from El Bight. They have probably about 40 or so rooms at about $100 US per night, per person.  Nice beach and room to roam.  They appear to be raising Logger Head Turtles, but weren't able to confirm that with anyone.  Gladly, turtle soup is NOT on the menu! We had planned to spend the night, but the weather changed and so we went back to El Bight.  It is a nice place, but pretty desolate now, but definitely deserves a return trip.



Michael's Rock



We also visited Michael's Rock.  I tried and tried but couldn't find any info as to "why" it is named Michael's Rock, it just is!!  There aren't many living on the north end of Guanaja, but a few.  There is at least one dive resort and the Green Flash Bar and if you look real hard you might see a home or two tucked into the forest.  We beached the dinghy's, snorkeled and snacked; it was great.  I was disappointed I didn't see more wildlife; matter of fact, I hardly saw any birds while in Guanaja, weird!  We did get visited everyday though by a dolphin while anchored in El Bight.  Apparently he has lived here for years and years.  I wish I could have swam with him.

Of course we had a beer at the Green Flash Bar and took some pics of a very fancy home being built next to the dive resort.  Then we met up with Eric from the Dive Resort and he suggested we go to the waterfall, not the big one, just a small one.  David hopes to return to Guanaja and take a tour to the "big" waterfall, which means hiking up the mountain; Klaus was going to take him but he and Annette are headed back to Germany to await the birth of their second grandchild and visit with other family.

We would have liked to have stayed longer in Guanaja, but after all it is hurricane season and with a good weather window, we returned to French Cay after only a week.  French Cay, almost feels like home now.  We've gotten to know Roatan well, but are still anxious to move on to new places.  Looking forward to possibly heading to Panama in the fall.

Stay tuned!